Sodium hydroxide in itself is a potent skin irritant, but once it's reacted (as it is usually in skin care products, like exfoliants) it is totally harmless. Overall, Ascorbyl Palmitate is our least favorite vitamin C derivative. It‘s also shown to have wound healing properties and is a mild antioxidant. The only good thing we can write about Ascorbyl Palmitate is that there is an in-vitro (made in the lab, not on real people) study showing that it might be able to boost collagen production. It’s pretty much the current IT-preservative. BG is approved by Ecocert and is also used enthusiastically in natural products. It's a clear oily fluid that is used in skincare as a nice anti-inflammatory and soothing ingredient. So being a wax ester results in a couple of unique properties: First, jojoba oil is extremely stable. A common helper ingredient that stabilizes emulsions and helps to thicken up products. It’s in the cell walls of yeast, some mushrooms, seaweeds, and cereals. Truth be told, there are many great plant oils and sunflower oil is definitely one of them. It’s a solid white stuff that’s very alkaline and used in small amounts to adjust the pH of the product and make it just right. A very common silicone that gives both skin and hair a silky smooth feel. Second, jojoba oil is the most similar to human sebum (both being wax esters), and the two are completely miscible. The big and important protein molecule that usually comes from animal skin such as fish or bovine. Combined with other super-natural ingredients, this miraculous discovery powers Algenist’s award … It also contains a bunch of minerals and vitamins A, E and D. Avocado oil has extraordinary skin penetration abilities and can nourish different skin layers. It still often shows up in the ingredient list of soaps and other cleansers. Avocado oil - a highly moisturizing, rich emollient oil that is loaded with fatty acids (oleic - 70%) and vitamin A, E and D. Sunflower Oil - it's a great emollient that protects & enhances the skin barrier. This does not mean that ascorbyl palmitate cannot penetrate the skin (because it can, it's oil soluble and the skin likes to absorb oil soluble things) but this means that it's questionable if ascorbyl palmitate can be converted into pure Vit C in the skin. Enter FREESHIP at checkout to enjoy complimentary standard shipping for a limited time. It's uniquely excellent at helping the skin with its protective barrier and helping it to stay moisturized. It is one of the more promising natural preservatives that can be used even alone (recommended at 2-4%), but it's not as effective as more common alternatives, like parabens or phenoxyethanol. So citric acid is an exfoliant, that can - just like other AHAs - gently lift off the dead skin cells of your skin and make it more smooth and fresh. High performance safe & vegan formulas powered by algae. Like this, the products can stay more stable over time. The oil coming from the pulp of one of the most nutritious fruits in the world, the avocado. The extract coming from the popular garden plant Calendula or Marigold. For all skin types including skin showing signs of sensitivity, this luxurious cream provides a cushioned layer on the skin that immediately comforts dryness, tightness and the look of redness associated with rough, dry skin. It's quite a multi-tasker: can be used to improve skin moisturization, as a solvent, to boost preservative efficacy or to influence the sensory properties of the end formula. It comes from the seeds of African Shea or Karite Trees and used as a magic moisturizer and emollient. It can boost the effectiveness of phenoxyethanol (and other preservatives) and as an added bonus it feels nice on the skin too. It can be used in many types of formulations as it has great thermal stability (can be heated up to 85°C) and works on a wide range of pH levels (ph 3-10). It's a popular duo. :) You are almost done: please check your mailbox to confirm your email! A helper ingredient that helps to make the products stay nice longer, aka preservative. It is a liquid-gel formula with micro-beads suspended throughout. It’s a great pick for creating a nice feeling product. Yes, it’s soap. These nutrients help to replenish, moisturize, and protect the skin. So what the heck is a wax ester and why is that important anyway? Calming Relief shows the customer that there is a highly-concentrated Algenist plant-based collagen formula for any skincare need. Btw, if you chop it up less thoroughly, you get hydrolyzed collagen, a kind of peptide mixture with smallish chains of amino acids. Can you guess what? The gist of the "collagen in topical skincare" subject is to know that collagen in a jar has nothing to do with wrinkles but everything to do with skin hydration. Amino acids are also the building blocks of proteins, such as collagen, so when you thoroughly chop up a big collagen molecule, you end up with an amino acid mixture, like this guy we are writing about. It occurs naturally in certain fish and plant oils (e.g. Infused with our exclusive … Beautiful Product. The manufacturer of the ingredient did a published study with 27 people and examined the effect of 0.1% beta-glucan. I was very excited to use the new and expensive Algenist Genius Liquid Collagen Serum. A great study in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology compared a bunch of vitamin C derivatives and this derivative was the only one where the study said in terms of stability that it's "similar to AA". It is very common in gel-type formulas that also contain an oil-phase as well as in cleansers as it also works with most cleansing agents (unlike a lot of other thickeners). Firstly, it's stability is only similar to that of pure ascorbic acid (AA), which means it is not really stable. It can be used to improve skin moisturization, as a solvent, to boost preservative efficacy or to influence the sensory properties of the end formula. It's one of the active parts of Chamomile that contains about 30% of bisabolol. Leslie Bauman notes in Cosmetic Dermatology that one application of sunflower oil significantly speeds up the recovery of the skin barrier within an hour and sustains the results 5 hours after using it. High performance safe & vegan formulas powered by algae. Ingredients: Water (Aqua, Eau), Collagen (Vegetable)*, Squalane, Glycerin, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Dimethicone, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Palmitic Acid, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Stearic Acid, Cetearyl Alcohol, PEG-100 Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Parachlorella Beijerinckii Exopolysaccharides, Chlorella Protothecoides Oil, Beta-Glucan, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Enteromorpha Compressa Extract, Leontopodium Alpinum Extract, Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid, Tocopherol, Collagen Amino Acids, Bisabolol, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Silybum Marianum Fruit Extract, Coelastrella Vacuolata Oil, Watanabea Reniformis Oil, Citric Acid, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Propanediol, Ceteareth-20, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Pentylene Glycol, Butylene Glycol, Ethyhexylglycerin, Hexylene Glycol, Sodium Hydroxide, Disodium EDTA, 1,2-Hexanediol, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Sodium Benzoate, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol. We are highly skeptical what effect a tiny amount of AP has in a formula. It's formulated with soothing Calendula and Active Vegan Collagen™ to reduce redness and hydrate rough patches, and has Alguronic Acid to protect against the effects of environmental stressors and minimize signs of aging. Super common little helper ingredient that helps products to remain nice and stable for a longer time. Jojoba oil - a wax ester (chemically not a real oil), that's very similar to human sebum. Citric acid comes from citrus fruits and is an AHA. Other tasks include helping the product to absorb faster and deeper into the skin (penetration enhancer), making the product spread nicely over the skin (slip agent), and attracting water (humectant) into the skin. A fatty acid that can be found naturally in the skin. Pretty much the current IT-preservative. The result is that the mainly oil soluble, emollient fatty alcohol is converted to an emulsifier molecule that keeps oil and water mixed in creams. An oil soluble vitamin C derivative that has mixed data about its effectiveness. It's an alternative, natural preservative that comes from radishes fermented with Leuconostoc kimchii, a lactic acid bacteria that has been used to make traditional Korean dish, kimchi. Add to Bag ALGENIST GENIUS Liquid Collagen Hand Cream 50ml £ 36.00. We have a shiny explanation about this at soluble collagen, so click here to read more >>. The unrefined version (be sure to use that on your skin!) At the same time, it also boosts the effectiveness of other preservatives, such as the nowadays super commonly used phenoxyethanol. They are good friends because ethylhexylglycerin can boost the effectiveness of phenoxyethanol (and other preservatives) and as an added bonus it feels nice on the skin too. It's an alternative, natural preservative that comes from radishes fermented with Leuconostoc kimchii, a lactic acid bacteria that has been used to make traditional Korean dish, kimchi. It’s safe and gentle, and can be used up to 1% worldwide. It is a polymer (created from repeating subunits) molecule and has different molecular weight and thus different viscosity versions from water-light to thick liquid. It’s pH dependent and works best at acidic pH levels (3-5). A handy multi-tasking ingredient that gives the skin a nice, soft feel and also boosts the effectiveness of other preservatives. It’s often used together with ethylhexylglycerin as it nicely improves the preservative activity of phenoxyethanol. It's known and grown for jojoba oil, the golden yellow liquid coming from the seeds (about 50% of the weight of the seeds will be oil). This means that our molecule is part water- and part oil-loving, so it not only works as a thickener but also as an emulsion stabilizer. Putting it on your face it also does a bunch of good things: it ‘s shown to have wound healing properties, it’s a mild antioxidant,  it’s a great skin soother and moisturizer, and it even shows promising anti-aging benefits. And by even more  we mean putting it all over your face as sunflower oil is one of the most commonly used plant oils in skincare. GENIUS Collagen Calming Relief is a concentrated but ultra-gentle restorative treatment that is specifically formulated to treat mild skin discomfort. 4.5 /5 2 reviews. According to the manufacturer's clinical study (double-blind, 40 people, 4 weeks long), 2% SymCalmin (the trade name of our diluted - 5% - molecule) reduced itchiness significantly by 65% and it also reduced redness by 50%. Mother Nature also created wax esters but for a totally different purpose. Works in synergy with Vitamin C. 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